The UIAA has just released their latest research and approval for braking devices.
This research falls in the wake of our 2005 research entitled, Hang Em’ High , that was reported to the UIAA about our findings.
We are proud to make a difference in the safety and understanding of the climbing and rescue communities. CLICK HERE for more information at the UIAA web site.
We produce some of the best practical research available. You’ll hear about this research from any other rescue or climbing instructor/training institution, but you’ll get the first hand information here. Our research on multi-point anchors, ice screw and Abalakov anchors, belay device testing, and other applications of using equipment in real-world configurations is what the rescue field is based on.
Click photo below for a short video of some of our re-bored ice screw testing
“Another Day at the Office.” Marc Beverly performing real-world drop testing on ice screws in Ouray, Colorado.
Please read these articles.
- Beverly Avalanche SAR SOG_2009.pdf [210.70KB]
- Dynamic Shock Load Evaluation of Ice Screws_Final.pdf [562.28KB]
- Friction.pdf [463.22KB]
- Hang Em High Final.pdf [260.75KB]
- Ice-Climbing-Anchor-Strength.pdf [2.02MB]
- Multi_point pre_equalized anchors.pdf [396.21KB]
- Sequential Failure Falls.pdf [1.03MB]
- What Climbers Think.pdf [251.40KB]
Present Course of Study for Marc Beverly, PhD student at the University of New Mexico: The following papers are non-published pilot research studies that give a look into important present topics in climbing and rescue work.
- “Tracklines, what are the actual forces and implications ?”
- “Physiological Effect of Suspension Stress” University of New Mexico Exercise Science Lab 2010.
Although this research is only student project work as pilot testing, IRB approval is near complete for “Physiological Effect of Suspension Stress”. The preliminary pilot research paper can be found by clicking here.
We intend to hold this clinical trial at the UNM Exersice Physiology Department Lab at Johnson Center in Albuquerque, NM in 2011. We hope to be able to gain better insight into this highly controversial subject.